The Pets Blog
The Pets Blog
Ball pythons are one of the most popular beginner reptile pets — and for good reason. They’re calm, easy to handle, and don’t require a massive enclosure. But even though they’re beginner-friendly, these snakes still need proper care to stay healthy and happy.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about ball python care. From setting up the perfect habitat to feeding and handling, you’ll learn how to give your snake the best life possible.
Ball pythons are native to West and Central Africa, where they live in warm, dry environments. In captivity, they’ve gained a reputation as calm, slow-moving snakes that rarely bite. Their size is also a bonus — they usually grow to around 3 to 5 feet, making them manageable for most homes.
They’re called “ball” pythons because they curl into a ball when scared. It’s a defence mechanism, not aggression!
When picking your first snake, choose a captive-bred ball python. These are more likely to be healthy, used to handling, and less stressed in captivity.
Avoid snakes that look overly thin, have stuck shed, or seem very nervous.
A proper ball python setup is key to keeping your snake healthy. They need the right heat, humidity, and hiding spots to feel secure.
Avoid cages that are too large for babies — they may feel unsafe and refuse to eat.
Ball pythons are cold-blooded. They need a warm side and a cooler side in their tank.
Use a ceramic heat emitter or under-tank heating pad connected to a thermostat. Avoid heat rocks — they can burn your snake.
Ball pythons don’t need UVB lighting, but a light cycle (12 hours on, 12 hours off) helps maintain a natural rhythm.
Tip: Use a digital thermometer on both ends of the tank to monitor temperatures accurately.
Ball pythons need moderate humidity to stay hydrated and shed properly.
Avoid sand or cedar — they can cause respiratory or skin issues.
Ball pythons are shy and love to hide. Without proper cover, they may become stressed and stop eating.
Snakes don’t need toys, but a well-decorated enclosure gives them mental comfort.
Feeding is simple — but it must be done right. Ball pythons eat rodents and usually feed once a week.
Feed inside the enclosure unless your snake becomes cage-aggressive. Always supervise feeding and remove uneaten prey within a few hours.
Ball pythons may skip meals, especially during shedding or cooler months. This is normal — just monitor their weight.
Ball pythons are one of the easiest reptiles to handle. With gentle, regular interaction, most become very relaxed.
Never grab your snake from above — this mimics predator behaviour and may scare them.
Snakes shed their skin as they grow. A healthy shed should come off in one full piece.
Even with good care, problems can arise. Here’s what to watch for:
Issue | Signs | Action |
Mites | Small black dots on skin | Clean enclosure, use mite spray |
Respiratory Infection | Wheezing, bubbles from nose | See a reptile vet |
Stuck Shed | Skin left on eyes or tail | Soak snake and increase humidity |
Refusing Food | No interest in prey | Check temps, stress, and enclosure setup |
Regular weight checks and close observation help you catch problems early.
A clean enclosure is a healthy one. Set a routine to keep everything tidy and safe.
Use reptile-safe cleaners or a vinegar/water mix. Rinse everything well before placing it back in the enclosure.
Ball pythons are a wonderful first snake for new keepers. With the right ball python setup, regular feeding, and a calm approach to handling, these reptiles can live long, healthy lives. They don’t need much — just the right humidity, a few good hides, and your attention to detail.
Whether you’re new to reptiles or adding to your collection, ball pythons offer a low-stress, rewarding experience for keepers of all ages.